Thursday, October 2

The Supposed Evil Calorie Coverup, or Everything You Eat is Someone Else's Fault

Eaten at a "fresh-Mex" chain recently? You might want to reconsider ever eating there again after perusing the recent press release dated September 30, 2003 from the Center for Science in the Public Interest. Some choice excerpts:

"Chipotle's Vegetarian Burrito (with black beans, rice, cheese, guacamole and salsa) weighs over a pound and provides 1,120 calories and three-quarters of a day's worth of saturated fat (14 grams)."

"[Baja Fresh's] chicken, cheese or steak Quesadillas average 1,230 calories and have nearly two days' worth of artery-clogging saturated fat. That's like having two Quarter Pounders with another half-day's sat fat thrown in, according to CSPI."

Yikes! But I love those quesadillas, especially after I add some guacamole to them!

You might remember CSPI as the organization that denounced movie popcorn (that stuff will kill you immediately upon purchase!) and Starbucks' mocha espresso drinks (it's like drinking a Big Mac, only worse!). I think the employees of CSPI must be very dedicated to their work, since probably ninety-five percent of Americans either (a) hate them or (b) are totally unaware of their existence or their cause.

The press release about fresh-Mex chains brings up three issues: first, that some chains make it difficult or impossible to get accurate nutritional information about their products; second, that portion sizes are way out of whack; and third, that fresh-Mex chains in particular "cultivate an aura of healthfulness" which is mostly undeserved. Each issue should be evaluated on its own merit.

It has been years since the federal government mandated the use of standardized nutritional labels on packaged food items. During those years, Americans have just gotten fatter. According to the National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey (1999-2000), nearly two-thirds of adult Americans are overweight, and over thirty percent qualify as "obese." At the same exact time, it is estimated that Americans spend $30 billion a year trying to either lose weight or prevent weight gain by purchasing diet manuals, meal replacement bars and shakes, frozen dinners, gyms...you get the picture. Apparently labeling cans and buying Slim-Fast is not enough to make our nation skinny, although it might help us be more aware of why exactly we are fat. And by the way, that $30 billion is ten times what the feds plan to spend on their entire "Economic Growth Plan" in 2004.

Are portion sizes way out of whack? Yes. The End. (CSPI can't accuse Chipotle of not being up front about the size of their burritos; the company proclaims that "20 ounces isn't the drink, it's the burrito" in its ads.)

Finally, as to the "aura of healthfulness" that fresh-Mex chains cultivate: did I think I was eating a better dinner at Baja Fresh than I would at McDonald's? Yes. Am I also aware that any kind of Mexican food is usually full of cheese, sour cream, oil of various sorts, and (if one is really very lucky) lard? Yes. Hmm. Is this why I sometimes choose not to order a quesadilla and instead order grilled chicken tacos with just salsa? Yes again! And yet I am not a registered dietician.

CSPI is guilty of trying to once again remove the responsibility from the American consumer. We have been pummeled and pelted with nutritional information for years, much of it contradictory (first butter was the bad fat – now it's margarine) and some of it ridiculous (see above). We do not, as a nation, pay any attention whatsoever. Scientists have been working for years on the so-called "French Paradox," but I myself think French people are slender because they eat small portions and walk a lot. The constant smoking might help in that arena too, I guess, but I doubt that the CSPI recommends that particular weight-loss aid.

Most of us just have to eat less and exercise more. That's it. Julia Child knew that thirty years ago; "everything in moderation" has always been her motto, and she's ninety-one years old!

[That creaking you hear is me lumbering off of my soapbox so that I can choose between Baja Fresh and Chipotle for lunch. Maybe I'll tell them to hold the sour cream today.]