Wednesday, March 12

Adventures in Food, USA

Have you ever been on a road trip? Or been able to attain that feeling of almost palpable freedom, busting out of you day-to-day routine, even if for just a week, permitting yourself to see the world as a child would? Venturing out into new territory, hopefully without any set schedules or boundaries, and searching for the gems that lay undiscovered or unappreciated in our vast land?

I just returned from a comprehensive six-week tour of the United States of America. Along with two of my favorite "road partners," I headed out across the country, packed into a convertible overflowing with camping gear, bags of food, cameras, and about twenty pairs of shoes. We courageously scoured the land for the perfect hike, prettiest picnic spot, most precious thrift store bargain, and, of course, best meal.

For me, traveling is largely about eating and the search for the most authentic, regional, and enticing food products. I mean, we have to eat to survive, right? So why not strive for the ultimate eating experience while we're at it? You might not be able to fathom this, but there are some people out there who may not view the act of edible consumption in the same light. If you happen to be on the road with one of these individuals, make sure to have plenty of road snacks for them, in case their blood sugar drops while you are searching for the perfect place to eat.

I have to admit that there were times on our trip when I refused to settle for stopping at "the next place we see" for lunch. I desired a graceful balance between local cuisine, quality, service, and ambiance, and sometimes it took a while to find it. Lucky for you, I found several restaurants which offered just such a balance – USA style!

A recommendation by the kind folks in the local bookstore bring us here. "It's the only good bread in town," they say. As we pull in, I can already recognize signs of quality and passion for baking. It is an open and sunny space complete with Tibetan prayer flags and a community announcement board out front by the patio. Inside, the bread racks hold numerous kinds of bread, from classic sourdough and baguettes to Bavarian rye, mixed olive, and several spelt options.

The friendly girl at the register doesn't have a clear opinion about the best, but provides us with generous samples to help us finally decide on the multigrain for sandwich purposes. Two small bakery cases hold an assortment of fresh cinnamon rolls, gingersnaps, macaroons, and cookies – chocolate chip, oatmeal, and chocolate hazelnut. The other case has a small but tasteful selection of cheeses, juices, and gourmet sandwiches ($7). The whole place buzzes with warmth and ease and I feel inspired to bake, especially after our meeting with the Virginian owner. Upon noticing our Virginia license plate, he runs inside and assembles a care package of two large focaccia loaves and at least a dozen mixed cookies! If ever in Durango, go there...my recommendation is a small attempt to return the favor.

The menu board out front, as well as the local menu guide, touts several write-ups, awards, and recommendations, almost too many to be believable. Yet upon entering this busy restaurant, one finds that its reputation is well-deserved. It is an old adobe-walled, four-room space, with dark shiny wood floors and simple southwestern decor. Roberto, for whom the restaurant is named, is still an active presence in the kitchen. This is a family-run business, employing family members from age twelve to age sixty-plus, all of whom seem to be wearing a smile.

The menu is brief but appealing, and the kind waitress assures me that they only use vegetable oil for frying. I order the chile relleno dinner plate, which comes with sopapillas, beans, and rice ($10). The classic New Mexican red chile sauce is great on everything and honey goes well with the fluffy and addictive sopapillas. A taste of the cheese enchiladas with fried egg on top is amazingly good as well. Although the portion size is perfect – not gargantuan – we still have no room for the homemade flan. A special bonus: the ladies room has floor-to-ceiling Smurf wallpaper!

Since this restaurant is so named because Edgar Allen Poe stayed in the building while writing "The Raven," you'll be surprised to know that it is not dark or scary at all. Rather, this beautifully light and open space is well designed and perfect as a lunch or dessert destination. Edgar's offers great espresso drinks, tempting salads, soups, sandwiches ($9-$15), and a very extensive pie and cake selection.

One exciting and unique item is the snack-sized sandwich ($3). I choose goat cheese, lettuce, and tomato on a crusty sesame semolina bun. It is exactly what I want for a mid-afternoon pick-me-up! The samples of caramel apple cake and brownie cheesecake are equally great and the hot apple cider is something as well. I will definitely go back to Edgar's when I hit the city again.

There you have it! Get out there and discover some little roadside gems of your own.